Jaguar XJ-S Headlining removal

This is not a difficult job and is well within the ability of most owners.

We Supply the correct fabric for recovering the headlining. Headlining material is available in Tan and Gray and we recommend that you use 3m headlining adhesive together with these instructions. If you would like to purchase any part of this project use the Get on-line quote button from the parts index page or use the text links in the paragraph.

The key issue to getting the roof panel out or in on a XJ6 is via what route. The simplest way is if the front or rear screen has been removed perhaps in conjunction with a repair or following a re-spray. It is reported that it can be removed via a rear door but we have never tried this

The roof-headlining panel is easy enough to remove once you have removed various ancillaries such as the visors, grab handles, rear Map lights (where fitted) and rear view mirror. Removal of the rear deck and seat belts are essential for access to the rear side cant rails (bits down the side) the one across the rear window also must be removed. It also helps to remove the top of the dash panel as well but not essential.

The Visors are held by three screws and the clip by one through its middle. Rear view mirror is a push on fit and is simply pulled from its socket, once pulled off it will reveal two screws that affix the mounting plate.

Rear upper cant rail is held by Snap Sacs (pin and receptor) and can be pressed free.

Rear map lights - remove cover and three retaining screw.

Grab handles - again pop the cover and slide it toward the middle of the handle to reveal four screws which should now be removed along with the plastic spacers noting there orientation. One further screw attaches the mount/joining panel.

Remove the rear seat squab - lower cushion is held by two screws or bolts along its forward edge the rear seat back then comes out after removal of the two screws/bolts in its lower edge and then lifting toward the roof to disengage the clips

Pull the covers from the rear seat belt reels and remove the single bold that secures these to the rear deck.

The rear deck should now slide forward and can be removed.

The rear side cant rails are held again with Snap sacs and can be popped out.

Dash top: first remove the top vents very carefully so as not to break the retaining pins. Next remove a number of screws along the front edge and the panel should then lift clear.

The forward section is held in place the same way as the rear ones and can be carefully popped out.

You will now have and interior free of trim parts and just the headlining biscuit left in place.

With the help of an assistant to support the biscuit. Remove the screws that hold the fixing tags that hold the panel in position.

Slide the now detached biscuit out through the screen aperture (front or rear)

Unfortunately it is not just a case of re-sticking the old stuff. If you do it will fail again in a short matter of time. The failure is not the headliner glue but the bonding between the headliner material and it’s backing, a foam like substance. Once you rip the cloth off you then need to remove all traces of the foam (carefully) from the Fibre board headliner.

Wear gloves a mask and eye protection as most are made from fiberglass.

Using a glue that is right for the job is essential. Our own Hi temperature spray adhesive or 3M headlining adhesive are both purposed designed for this application. It is easier to lay the biscuit on a flat surface and then roll the new fabric on to it checking that it fits with some spare at the edges.

Now fold back one end to about the halfway mark and spread/spray glue onto this revealed half. Now lay the fabric back onto the glued surface starting at the half way fold to avoid bubbles. Being smooth, concentrated and calm is essential to the finish. Once this half has been attached fold back the other half and repeat.

Covering the rear cant rail is self-evident

Once complete and dry refitting is the reverse of the removal process