
Modified and Upgraded instrument panel
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Instrument binnacle
overhaul procedure
The first procedure is to remove the binnacle from the car and
strip it down to its component parts. here is how
Good practice: place all the parts in small containers away
from your work area as you strip the unit out. try to group
them together in part type and order of disassembly to avoid
confusion during reassembly. wherever possible label everything |
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Remove the two screws (one ether side) 2 Fig 1 and one
in the top finisher 1Fig 1 and carefully remove the surround
panels
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Pop the two end finishers out of the instrument cluster
at each end of the warning lights 3 Fig 1 and undo and remove
the two screws (large) that fix the binnacle in place 4
Fig 1 Also remove the two screws that hold the warning lamp
legend in place
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Figure 1
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Extend the steering wheel to its fully out position and
tilt the binnacle forward and down so as to gain access
to the rear.
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Disconnect the two loom plugs and the speedometer drive
cable on pre electronic versions and fully remove the binnacle
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On the workbench lay the binnacle face down and remove
the screws that fix the faceplate to the main unit and separate
the two halves.
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Figure 2
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Next undo and remove the screws that secure the speedometer
monitor gauges and rev counter to the main unit note the
location and use of the washers/packing pieces. 3, 4 and
5 Fig 2. Extreme care must be taken when handling these
parts as they are easily damaged, as is the printed circuit.
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Undo and remove the screws that secure the green domes
and inspect them for damage If your domes are OK and not
damaged or darkened and if you intend to keep the illumination
original, clean them out
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Disengage the illumination lamp housings again taking
care not to damage the printed circuit board. 1 Fig 2. Remove
the lamps from the holders
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Undo the three screws holding the earth strap in place
to allow easier access to the warning lamps. 2 Fig 2
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Remove all the warning lamps from the main unit. 6 Fig
2
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VERY CAREFULLY, remove the PCM from the main unit.
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With the main unit completely stripped out clean the
inside to remove all traces of dust and dirt (and sometimes
rust, yes it even gets in there).
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Remove the spring washers that hold the front faceplate
Fig 3 to the front panel and separate the two parts
Instrument binnacle
overhaul procedure
You are now ready to overhaul the individual parts
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Clean all the plastic parts to remove dirt, rust and
grime using a good quality washing up liquid and set them
aside to dry. (best to do this when the other half’s
round her friends house - you know it makes sense)
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Take the PCM and carefully mount it on a piece of glass,
hardboard or the kitchen work top, using low tack tape (masking)
on the corners making sure that all the little connector
tags are lying flat (use the work top option ONLY if she
is still out at her mates house)
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Using a pencil eraser or fibre glass pencil gently polish
all the tarnish off the connectors until they ar bright
and clean.
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Leaving the PCM taped safely in place until reassembly
move on to the screws that where removed from the gauges
and polish the mating surfaces to the same degree as the
connection points on the PCM
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Take each of the monitor gauges in turn and clean the
connection receptor on each connection pole where the fixing
screw comes through the plastic and touches the conductor.
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If you wish, now is a good time to test the travel of
the Monitor gauges but this is optional depending on how
confident you are. If you are at all worried proceed to
number 8 You could use a 12v power supply, three lengths
of wire with crocodile clips on them (red and black for
clarity would be good) a potentiometer rated to the senders
ohmage and a volt meter (VM)
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This would allow you to test each gauge to insure that
its travel was smooth and that at full power it reads maximum.
Test each gauge in turn and use the Schematics on this web
site to correctly Identify the terminals polarity. If you’re
reading this bit we’ll assume you already have a clear
understanding of how to complete the test satisfactorily
and so we leave it to you from here on in.
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Clean the contacts on the revolution counter and Speedometer
(electronic ones only) as before with the monitor gauges.
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Turning your attention to the lamp holders, inspect each
one for connector firmness and clean each to remove tarnish
etc.
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Check the green lamp domes for burnishing and cracking,
any sign of ether means that they will have to be replaced
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Once all the parts are clean you might consider coating
them with a anti tarnish solution available from most good
electrical stockist's such as RS Components or CPC
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Instrument binnacle
overhaul procedure
The next step is to improve the reflectivity of the Binnacle
itself. This really is worth doing as the improvement in the
illumination at night is outstanding and possibly one of the
best upgrades you’ll ever do |
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Because the inside of the front panel is painted dark
grey it doesn't’t reflect light too well so the obvious
answer is to colour it with something more reflective such
as satin white. Fig 3 Don’t
be tempted to do this in silver , chrome or glossy white
as it is not diffusive enough and causes the reflected light
to been too directional.
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Figure 3 Rear of front panel - finished
in satin black
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The inside of the main unit also needs to be given the
same treatment. Fig 4 with the
exception that a good aluminium silver paint applied to
the lamp housing chambers helps to maximise the travel of
the lamps filament output thus delivering maximum light
to the front panel for reflection to the corresponding instruments
face. Fig 5
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Figure 4. Internal cluster chamber
of main unit - finished in satin white
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Figure 5. Internal lamp chambers -
finished in silver (hand painted) |
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A nice upgrade which just improves and modernised the
instrument cluster is to spray the front face of the panel
in black but this is a matter of taste and ideally should
be done with the white areas painted earlier carefully masked
off.
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Figure 6. For a more modern look; front face of front panel
- finished in satin black
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Replacing the 5 x 2.2 watt lamps with 5 watt ones will
help improve the illumination and as they give off only
marginally more heat will be safe.
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Reassemble the unit, which as the manuals state, is the
reverse of the disassembly instructions. Pay attention to
the connections and insure they are tight and in the case
of the monitor gauge screws that they can make good contact
with the connection posts
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You will be amazed at just how much improved the illumination
is now even on a damp rainy day in daylight the illumination
can be seen.
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On returning to the car make sure you clean the loom plugs
as before with the fibre pencil or eraser.
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You might want to consider installing an extra earth
point by connecting two lengths of wire using a snap connector
and earth tags - one on the car body the other beneath the
screw head of one of the gauges. This acts as a boost to
help combat the voltage drop on the PCM track at its thinnest
point during heavy loads
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